Friday, February 25, 2011

Travel: Fashion: Migrant


In a few hours, I won't be around the city and married to the laptop for a good number of days. :)

I'm leaving you guys with another piece from my 2009 'Migrant' collection.

The premise for the exhibit where 'Migrant' was included was to showcase both Filipino young blood and Filipino indigenous textile to the very international audience of New York City.

Taking a modernist, practical and what was then relatively new approach, I mixed local textiles and weaves like pinya and jute with leather, wool and knit; and making clothes that will undoubtedly be considered as daywear. (The exhibit was staged September, so I was thinking Fall/ Winter ;plus ironically, despite coming from a tropical country, I excel more in designing outerwear and leatherwear.)

I expressly chose the theme 'Migrant' both for its topical relevance in the Philippine and American setting; and on a more practical level, its relevance to travel and wash friendly clothing. Easy to wear clothing you can throw in your luggage and wear in different occasions- which is my usual train of thought when making my clothes as I love repeating my clothes and largely frown upon disposable trendy things.

About the outfit: Cocoon jacket made of leather and jute. Cotton double head tank top. Pinya and wool pencil bubble skirt with steel zipper fastening.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Music: Hollywood


By Marina and The Diamonds.
One of the very few times Hollywood will ever be mentioned in this blog. :)
Hollywood represents what for me is beauty for beauty's sake which quite frankly is
unparalleled in its vapidity. This is saying a lot considering I already find the industry that
I'm in pretty shallow.

Moving on, the album version contains 5 extra lines you won't hear in the 'main' version...
5 extra lines that I find super witty and abso-effin love ( I promised myself not to cuss in this blog.
I have high hopes I get some sort of advertiser someday... We all know how they feel about dirty words- those greenbuck doling ones:))! Especially that part where she starts singing:

"Thirty-Nine years old with a mile high sheen
trying to stimulate a mind that is slowly starting to decay,
I itch my skin, I jump up and say
"Lady, I know why your thoughts turn grey"

Plus you gotta love the future classic line:"I'm obsessed with the mess that's America." :)



"

More Relevant Matters: The Cost of Your Dress and That Nice Lady Who Makes It

Stemmed from a conversation I had with my mom earlier today.

Injustice.

I really find great injustice in how people treat the local fashion designers... especially when it comes to the labor side of things- which involve 2 kinds of people under my direct employ
a) the seamstresses and b) the pattern maker/ cutter (the embroiderers and embellishers and the iron/ steam lady and the quality control are excluded in this discussion because most the the time the same people double for the said jobs and of course, for the purpose of simplicity.)

It infuriates me that people (clients) can take for granted the extremely highly specialized and skilled type of labor these people (seamstresses and pattern makers) can offer and ask for DISCOUNTS. Armed with the thinking that sewing and pattern making are 2 very easy jobs! How dare they?!?!

Here's a reality check:
I function as the designer and the master pattern maker in the studio.
I've been doing this for at least five years (3 years semiprofessionally and 2++ and counting professionally.) In that time span, an entry level employee in any corporate office setup can make his/her way to a junior manager position on average.

Pattern making for the uninitiated involves geometry. I employ 2-3 of the 12 postulates every time I do my patterns. Yes, aside from the pythagorean theorem and pi, I also use the sin, cos , tan functions. While, cutting involves precision, cutting right before the outline, nothing more, nothing less.

To be honest, I don't mind being paid less than a junior manager because I acknowledge the fact that the bulk of the labor comes from my seamstresses.

Nice ladies who expertly and perfectly piece together intricate puzzle pieces made of fabric to make that dress, YOUR DRESS. AND that's just the beginning... I could go on and on and on about the 1/16" double hemming, the hand draping, the blind stitching, the hand finishing and those zippers! that you think takes no more than 5 minutes to sew can make fledging designers cry with frustration. Let's not forget, you want SWAROVSKI on your dress too! that's countless hours of individual application of crystals and beads.

Here's an even bigger reality check, any man can till the soil and plant rice stalks. Any man can fry chicken, burger and fries. Any man can mix up coffee and cream and syrup and reheat that puff pastry in the display. Any man can lay hollow blocks on top of one another and put cement in between (fine, any strong man can. I went through a bit of construction worker phase too, so I know how hard it is). BUT, to sew a perfectly straight line takes weeks of practice and then you move on to sewing a perfectly curved line and then to piecing fabrics together while you avoid puckering at all cost... NOT any man can do that.

And to pay them 402 PHP/day (minimum wage in Manila, Philippines, that's around 9-10USD for the foreign readers)?!?! Tell me junior manager how your ass would feel if you get paid the same amount for that much work. Take note, my seamstress might me the more useful and productive employee between the two of you.


So the next time you go to your local designer. Please think about this. All of us, me and my seamstresses would have to shoulder that discount you ask for. We can't make our prices like the ones they have in SM Department Store because a) we don't have the capacity to produce enough to simply demand a wholesale price and b) you don't have the capacity to buy 1000pcs of the same design per color per size to even dare to demand an SM price.

Please bear in mind as well that what you're paying for isn't just a dress but also personalized service. Don't expect me to dish prices like ZARA because unlike ZARA, I make clothes that will fit you and only you. Unlike ZARA, your dress is one of a kind.

Ask for discounts if you can make your own dress and still think it's a piece of cake. Until then, you avail of my or any of my co designer's services precisely because it's beyond your capacity and skill to make a dress. It's high time you value the hard work that goes into what you wear because honey, it's a lot more complicated than you could ever imagine.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Music:This Year


By The Mountain Goats.

"I am gonna make through this year, If it kills me."

Nuff said. Prolly one of the best endurance jogging song. :)


Monday, February 21, 2011

More Relevant Matters: STOP TRANSPHOBIA/HOMOPHOBIA IN U.P. DILIMAN!

Below is a transcript of the letter submitted by Hender Gercio to the Department of European Languages, College of Arts and Letters, University of the Philippines Diliman. Hender Gercio is our former Punong-Babaylan (President).

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I am posting this because I want everyone to know how transphobia/homophobia is very much alive and kicking in the Philippine educational setting, even in the classrooms of the top state university. I currently have a teacher who refuses to address me as female in class due to her religious belief. Below is the complaint I submitted to our department head.

---



February 7, 2011

TO: Prof. Wystan de la Peña

Chairperson

Department of European Languages

College of Arts and Letters

University of the Philippines Diliman

RE: Incident Report and Request for Action


Dear Sir:

Please allow me to introduce myself through this letter. I am presently a junior undergraduate student pursing a degree in European languages (with French as specialization) in your Department. I was also part of your EL170 (Techniques of Translation) class during the summer of 2009.

I also identify as transgender, as a transsexual woman to be exact. I was assigned male at birth, but I have undergone gender transition and now live full time as female. Should you require more information to familiarize yourself with these concepts, an FAQ sheet published by the American Psychological Association about transgender individuals and gender identity is attached to this letter.

I would like to seek your assistance in addressing an issue that has come up during my classes with a member of the DEL faculty, Ms. Dominique “Nikki” Del Corro. I am currently her student in French 30-31 (Advanced Spoken French; Tuesdays to Fridays, 2:30-4:00PM) and EL 181 (Directed Language Activities: Practicum; Tuesdays and Thursdays, 11:30AM-1:00PM).

On January 27, 2011, after our EL 181 class, Ms. Del Corro approached me and asked when it would be convenient for me to have a talk with her. I inquired about the purpose of the meeting and she told me not to worry and that it was something related to my subjects French 30-31 and EL 181. We had the discussion on February 2, 2011 after our French 30-31 class.

Ms. Del Corro began by saying that she noticed me correcting my classmates whenever they referred to me using male pronouns (in French: il, lui) or male forms of address (in French: Monsieur). I replied that I identified and socially presented myself as female, and that addressing me as a woman was the appropriate thing to do. She then asked me about my biological sex. I told her that my legal sex (i.e. the sex/gender marker on my legal documents) was male, but I argued that this was irrelevant and ultimately misleading, because my legal sex did not accurately reflect my real-life identity, that of being a transsexual female.

Ms. Del Corro then admitted to me that she did not feel comfortable addressing me as female in class. She said “I am a Christian, and this is against my religious beliefs.” She also told me that she cannot separate being a Christian from who she was as a teacher. She then continued that she believed that homosexuality was a sin, and it was due to this reason that she cannot allow herself to accept and address me as female (I actually interrupted her to say that I was transgender, not homosexual/gay, but that did not affect her stance). Our conversation ended in a standstill, between my right to be recognized in my chosen gender in class and her right to her religious belief. We finally agreed to escalate this to you for a decision.

In the section “Academic Freedom of Faculty Members,” the UP Diliman Faculty Manual states that

2.1 Members of the teaching staff enjoy academic freedom; Provided however, That no instructor in the University shall inculcate sectarian tenets in any of the teachings, nor attempt either directly or indirectly, under the penalty of dismissal by the Board of Regents, to influence students or attendants at the University for or against any particular church or religious sect or political party.

By insisting on refusing to address me as female in class due to her religious belief, Ms. Del Corro is clearly succumbing to religious bias while inside the classroom. In addressing me as male (via the use of male pronouns, masculine forms of address, masculine adjectives, etc.) in front of the entire class, she deliberately invalidates my gender identity and implicitly propagates her religious belief that “homosexuality/transgenderism is wrong/evil/immoral/sinful and should not be accepted.” Since she is the authority figure inside the classroom, her legitimization of this practice (of refusing to recognize me as female) also indirectly influences my co-students in adopting the same homophobic/transphobic religious view.

Ms. Del Corro could also be found in violation of some of the articles of the “Code of Ethics for Faculty Members” in the UP Diliman Faculty Manual. Members of the faculty of the University of the Philippines should commit to:

III. Promote a strong sense of nationalism and enduring concern for social justice, gender equality, cultural values, community welfare, and protection of the environment;

Promoting concern for social justice necessitates an awareness of the complex issues of power, privilege and prejudice in today’s society. Instead of advocating to change structures that exclude groups and individuals (such as sexual and gender minorities), Ms. Del Corro, through her homophobic/transphobic views, participates in their further oppression. In judging my female gender identity as “invalid” just because I am transgender, she definitely does not promote gender equality (between transgender and non-transgender females) either.

Consenting to Ms. Del Corro’s actions also runs contrary to the cultural values and traditions of the Department of European Languages, of the University of the Philippines Diliman, and of the secular Philippine state.

Our Department, considered as the home of experts in European languages and cultures, should supposedly be full of people who are well-versed in European affairs, and who have been exposed to and influenced by Europe’s liberal, humanistic and progressive climate. Europe has achieved leaps and bounds when it comes to advocating for equal rights for LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender) people. The European Court for Human Rights recognizes transsexuality as a protected characteristic under Article 14 of the European Convention on Human Rights. Last year, France has become the first nation in the world to drop transsexualism from its list of mental disorders. DEL also proudly embraces the sexual and gender diversity of its faculty and staff, as evidenced by the number of its employees who are openly gay. It strikes me as highly ironic how Ms. Del Corro, herself an alumna of two highly progressive and radical educational institutions (UP Diliman and the University of Paris-Sorbonne), could continue to hold such bigoted beliefs about LGBT people.

The founding of the University of the Philippines Babaylan, the first and biggest organization of LGBT students in the country, in 1992 and its consistent recognition by university authorities year after year, demonstrates UP Diliman’s commitment to supporting its LGBT students in their struggle for equal rights within and outside the campus. The Diliman Gender Office conducts gender sensitivity training sessions to organizations, university institutions, and interested individuals. The UP Office of Guidance and Counseling offers its services to students who are in need of support in matters of coming out, relationships and other LGBT-related issues. The RGEP class Social Science 3 (Exploring Gender & Sexuality) provides a means for all UP students to understand and appreciate the diversity of genders and sexualities that exist within nature. These are just some of the initiatives that clearly portray UP as an LGBT-friendly campus.

Philippine society, heavily influenced by the Christian doctrine that Ms. Del Corro has invoked above, has been traditionally hostile to the LGBT community. The State should clearly remain separate from the Church, however, and little by little we are seeing advances in this campaign for secularism. Early last year, the Supreme Court overturned the Commission on Elections decision disqualifying the LGBT party-list group Ang Ladlad from seeking a congressional seat on grounds of “immorality.” This recognition of LGBT people as a minority group with legitimate concerns is a big statement on the part of the Philippine government in distancing itself from religious dogma. House Bill 956, seeking to prohibit a wide-range of discriminatory policies and practices against Filipino LGBTs, is currently pending in Congress.

V. Instill in our students the passion for learning, the discipline attendant to the pursuit of excellence, intellectual honesty, and respect for the humane;

“Humane” is defined as “marked by compassion, sympathy, or consideration for humans or animals” (Merriam-Webster Dictionary). Choosing to continue addressing me as male in class (either because of her religious belief or because my legal sex remains to be male), regardless if I insisted that I self-identify as female, is anything but compassionate, sympathetic or considerate. Ms. Del Corro is aware of how mentally and emotionally distressing the effect of being misgendered is, especially on transgender individuals such as myself, yet she chooses to misgender me anyway while invoking her religious freedom. This is definitely not the brand of “respect for the humane” that you would like your teachers to instill in their students.

VIII. Reject activities and interests that interfere with our responsibilities as faculty members and conflict with the interests of the University;

As a language teacher, Ms. Del Corro’s primary duty is towards her students, us language learners. I cannot claim to be an expert on this area, but I am sure that the effect of the classroom environment on the language learning rate of students is huge. It is important that language learners feel relaxed, safe and welcome before any learning can take place. How can a transgender student like me feel welcome in class if my teacher refuses to recognize my gender identity, which is integral to me as a person? How can I feel relaxed when I feel mortified every time I hear male pronouns, forms of address and adjectives being used to refer to me? How can I feel safe when I know that at the back of my teacher’s mind, she thinks that I am immoral and that I am condemned to go to hell when I die?

Religious prejudice has no place within the classroom’s four walls, especially if it is a UP classroom. I am therefore demanding, in behalf of all present and future transgender students of this public and non-sectarian university, for my chosen gender identity to be affirmed and respected. I implore you to exercise your professional authority over Ms. Del Corro, and require her to treat and address me as female in class (through the use of female pronouns, feminine forms of address, feminine adjectives, etc.). I hope for a speedy resolution of this concern, and I await the opportunity to report to your office and have a dialogue with Ms. Del Corro and yourself. Thank you and more power.



Sincerely,

Hender Gercio

BA European Languages

Student Number 2000-xxxxx

Email: ---------

Mobile: -------



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UPDATE: I had the dialogue with Ms Del Corro and Mr de la Peña last February 18 (Friday) 4PM. The chairperson informed me that he cannot require Ms Del Corro to address me as female since my legal gender remains to be male (as it will forever be unfortunately, unless a Philippine gender recognition law gets passed) and that there was no university policy addressing transgender students. He also stated that Ms Del Corro did not violate any of the university rules (i.e. academic freedom, code of ethics).

I am frustrated by how easily respect, political correctness and common sense get thrown out the window in favor of a mere technicality. I am angered by the unnerving tolerance of university officials to transphobia/homophobia, allowing bigotry to fluorish under the guise of religious freedom, depriving LGBT students of their human rights in the process. I am horrified, that with the absence of regulations that ensure the safety and well-being of LGBT students in Philippine schools, that we will continue to be moving targets of bullying, harassment and violence.

As of now, I am still waiting for the signed written copy of Mr de la Peña's decision so that I can escalate the case. I hope this finally opens the door to the active lobbying for LGBT rights to be recognized in UP Diliman and other educational institutions across the country.

My pronouns are MY pronouns. I don't care who your God is, but I will not let you take my gender identity away from me.


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You can best show your support and solidarity, access more releveant infromation, and help by joining this page:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Stop-Homophobia-and-Transphobia-in-UP-Diliman/192126547475704

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Fashion: Migrant



Digging through my archives as of the moment. This dress was done way back in 2009 for my exhibit in New York City. Inspired by the yearly emigration of jellyfishes to the banks of Bantayan Island, Cebu during the month of May where I used to spend my childhood summers and the parallelism of this phenomenon with the Filipino diaspora ('nomadism').

About the dress:
Dress is made of (very expensive for 3rd world/ developing country standards) pure linen and sating bias strips the lining is very delicate impossible to work with charmeuse.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Music: Impossible


By the Swedish group, Shout Out Louds.
The Swedes makes amazingly good pop. Very easy to listen to.
I loooovvvveee listening to this song while I'm working
and the almost 7 minute long song is usually on repeat.:)

Fashion: 003, Calayan-Sevilla. 12/20/2010





A little late a post. :)

Held last December 20, 2010 in Hotel Intercontinental Manila,
the event was an intimate exchange of vows.

Marriage isn't an available option for these two wonderful
loving people. As the Philippines doesn't have Same-sex Marriage laws
and to some extent, Gender Identity Recognition provisions in the constitution.

To this point, the only real 'advancement' in the rights protection
of the local LGBT ( Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender) community
is the still-yet-to-be-passed more than a decade old Anti Discrimination Bill...


I salute Lalen and Selina for being courageous in showing their commitment
to one another despite the moderately hostile environment of conservative Philippine society.

About the dress:
I was thinking of clouds when I made this dress. :)

Credits:
Bride and groom both in Mara Chua.
Photographs are a mix. My own cam and Nice Print Photography.




Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Fashion: Cotton

A preview of my client Patti's grad ball dress.
It's a double dress with a detachable long skirt.
She was less specific about the design of this dress so
I did exercise quite a bit of liberalism in designing/making this one. :)

I don't really see myself as the go to designer for pretty feminine dresses.
I love my edge. haha. Yeah, as you might have guessed, the color and the material isn't exactly my thing. Sooo, in this particular exercise I tired achieve compromise (femininity and edge) by creating soft geometries.

The dress is made of around 19 yards of chiffon. Dull satin base.

19 yards coz I did at least 3 layers of chiffon per skirt. I'm not a fan of single layer chiffon overlay. It's not diaphanous enough. hahaha (I would have used ethereal but diaphanous is a more apt description of the effect I wanted to achieve)... If I had more chiffon I'd have gone all the way and made 6 layers and made do without a base to really get that light airy effect.

The bodice is 100% hand pleated.

Also, loved the fact that my base is a few tones darker. It give the impression that the dress is glowing.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Fashion: Anatomy of a Prom Dress


My wonderful prom girl Patti was practical about what she wanted. She wanted a dress that she could wear more than once. It was decided to do the ball skirt separately and have a nice litte bubble dress as the main dress. I also added a draped detachable single sleeve whose draft you can see in Pic4 to make the dress even more versatile.

Fashion: Works In Progress. Pattern vs Hand Draping

PIC 1. Dresses in their current state.
PIC 2 &3. Their previous lives (the flat worm like paper patterns is the red dress now, the white dress obviously being the white ):)





The picture of the 2 dresses showcase an interesting POV on construction. Both dresses are 'draped' or more accurately, have drapes. The white (current state in pictures 1 while it's previous life is in picture 2), is draped with hand while the bodice is on the dress from. The red (current life in pics 1, while, yes, those 2 caterpillar shaped brown papers in pic 3 are its blueprint), purely generated from flat paper pattern. Both have their pros and their cons (flat and hand draping). I'm personally more comfortable using the paper pattern. I love precision and being able to replicate my clothes. Lets just put it at that :)

Fashion: Cutting Edge 2


Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion.
"London’s Barbican Art Gallery is currently showing Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion – a survey of avant-garde Japanese garments. Drawing from the 1980s to the present (featuring names such as Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto), the exhibition explores the unique sensibilities and notions of beauty embedded in Japanese design – with heavy inspirations from origami." -PLEATFARMER

This particular exhibit took the flat pattern superimposed on white board seen at Isabel Toledo's exhibit to a brand new level- mounting the garments themselves flat against the boards. Unlike, Isabel's basic esque shapes, the garments in the Future Beauty exhibit looked more like a 'modern art' reinterpretations of the Chinese brush stroke art.

That of course isn't the only reason why this makes this exhibit super duper cool. As we are talking 'Japanese' fashion in the last 30 years. The most exciting, explorative and challenging branch in fashion. They pretty much invented 'avant-garde' way back in 1981. And it's a very known fact that my favourite designer of them all is Rei Kawakubo of Comme Des Garcons. Also, of note, if you browse through the pics in the link I posted at the end of this entry, are those beautiful collapsible origami dresses that look like shuriken when flat- Issey Miyake's latest outing, love them to bits.

So yes, I would really give anything right now to be in London for this.